Градация размеров и посадка трикотажа: практическое руководство

Fit is one of the most powerful drivers of customer satisfaction in apparel — and one of the most common sources of returns. For knitwear, getting fit right is trickier than for woven garments because knit fabrics stretch, recover and shrink in ways that change how a garment actually sits on the body. Size grading is the discipline that keeps every size consistent.

This guide explains how knitwear size grading works and how to manage fit so your size chart matches what customers receive.

What Size Grading Means

Size grading is the process of taking a base size and systematically increasing or decreasing the measurements to create the full size run. Rather than designing each size from scratch, you define grade rules — how much each measurement changes per size step — and apply them across the range.

Grading keeps proportions sensible. Without consistent grade rules, an XXL can end up disproportionately wide, or a small can be too short in the body, and the fit breaks down at the extremes of the range.

Why Knits Grade Differently from Wovens

Knits introduce variables that wovens do not have:

The practical consequence: always specify whether measurements are taken **relaxed** or **stretched**, and confirm the fabric is pre-shrunk so the graded measurements hold after washing.

Building Your Grade Rules

Start with a Base Size

Choose a base size — often medium, or the size your fit model wears — and define its measurements precisely. This becomes the anchor for the whole range.

Define Points of Measure (POM)

List every measurement that matters for your garment. For a knit tee or hoodie, typical POMs include:

Set the Grade Increment

For adult garments, common increments are around 2.5–5 cm on the chest per size step, with smaller increments on lengths. Childrenswear uses smaller steps. The exact numbers depend on your target fit and market — oversized silhouettes may grade differently from slim fits.

Assign Tolerances

Every measurement needs a tolerance, which is the acceptable deviation in production. For knits, ±0.5 cm on body measurements and ±0.3 cm on smaller trims is a reasonable starting point. Tolerances are essential — without them, no measurement can be judged pass or fail at inspection.

Approving Fit with Samples

Fit is approved through samples, not spreadsheets. A practical sequence:

Measure every sample against the POM table and record the actual numbers. A garment that looks right but measures outside tolerance will cause problems in bulk.

Common Fit Problems and Their Causes

Publishing a Size Chart Customers Can Trust

Your e-commerce size chart should reflect the graded measurements, not aspirational ones. Two practical points:

Include a note if a style runs small or large. It reduces returns more than any other single change.

Quality Checkpoints for Fit and Sizing

Before bulk ships, confirm:

Conclusion

Size grading and fit are not afterthoughts — they are the difference between a product customers keep and a product they return. Define your base size precisely, set sensible grade rules and tolerances, and approve fit through physical samples measured against your POM table. Because knits stretch and shrink, always confirm pre-shrinkage and specify relaxed versus stretched measurement. Get this right and fit becomes a competitive advantage rather than a recurring problem.

Key Takeaways for Buyers

Work with HONGTEX

HONGTEX is a vertically integrated knit textile manufacturer based in China, offering in-house knitting, dyeing, cutting, and finishing under one roof. From fabric development and sampling to bulk production and third-party quality inspection, we support brands, retailers, and trading companies across every step of the product journey. Contact our team today to discuss your project and receive a tailored quotation within 24 hours.